Tuesday Oct 1 - Budapest to Esztegom Hungary

 It was a long wet muddy slog today, got out of Budapest OK and did ok for about 20km, then, ev6 impassable water over the trail looked to be about a foot deep no end in sight, so, on the road til past God, that’s really the name, with two dots over the o. Making good time toward Vac, when about 4km before, mud started, the path was all paved, which was a good thing, the mud could only be so thick but it was hard underneath, so i kept rolling, and it got wetter, and deeper, and clogged up my brakes and the wheels and pretty soon everything i was slowed down, the mud got thicker and flump, down i go. Well luckily when you have loaded panniers that’s what hits the ground hard and keeps the bike up a little, so i hoisted it up and started again did ok for a while, the path dried up some, there was a car tire track i rode in for a while, then, it all got deeper and wetter again and flump again. 

By now the wheels were so gummed up i couldn’t get going at all, so i was walking, and it was slick as you can imagine. And leaves and sticks were stuck up in between the tires and the frames, the spokes and brakes were coated, it was such a mess. So I pushed it carefully so not to slip and fall, for probably 1.5-2 km it was a long time. Finally, reaching Vac, it dried out, and I came to a barrier, they had a path closed barrier, if your were going north to south, of course the Vac city workers were clearing the path of mud and sandbags there, as the path goes through a city park. But since I was going south to north, out in no mans land there was no closure sign there…

Shortly through town, there was a boat launch landing on the river, so i pulled over there and took everything off the bike and laid it in the river and cleaned off all the mud, well as much as i could in about 45 minutes. Then i set off again and was making pretty good time but there was some more mud, not too much, then the path was submerged again the path was closed, and it was back on the road sharing with cars zooming by. 

The path came alongside again, I was about 20km to my destination for the night, and the path led to a ferry landing. Supposed to cross here, but no ferry it’s still closed due to high river. So back on the road again sharing with cars zooming by. 

After a while the path was visible again and i rode it to about 7 km from Sturovo, which Esztegom is just across the river from, then there was water on the path, about a foot deep, for maybe 200 meters, so i had no choice well i could have gone back the several kms and shared the road again, but i stuck it out and made it through, shoes soaked and pants pretty far up. By now it was starting to get dark, and the path was again flooded, and dumped me out onto the road, which was fine with me, it was starting to get dark and I had enough mud and water crossing for the day, and shortly after i rode into Sturovo,not getting on the sidewalk path nope staying on the dang road til i get to my hotel. It was getting dark and chilly and i was chilled my feet and wet legs i had no other dry shoes so get to the hotel as soon as possible was my idea. 

So I crossed the bridge, by the way Sturovo is a spa town, and it’s Slovakia, so i was in Slovakia for a while. Found the hotel in Esztegom and checked in, muddy bags clothes and all, got wet stuff off and a hot shower, dry clothes and rode into the town center didn’t see much but a Gyro Falalfel place so good enough i got dinner and rode back, and of course on the way I cut through old town to avoid traffic it being dark by now, and saw a few nice restaurants in the pedestrian section of town. 

It’s supposed to rain the next two or three days, so… i hate to be a party pooper, but there are trains from Sturovo to Bratislava, which is still 2 days ride 160 km or so, away. So IF the trains take bikes that’s my plan, I’ll get to Bratislava tomorrow and stay two or three nights til the rain is over, then continue on to Vienna and so on. Cuz what I’ve seen of the EV6 is not fun, tho there were some awesome vistas today of the river and hills and a castle and fortress across the way, the hassle of the mud and trail closures isn’t worth it. I may just get to Vienna and take a train back to Munich, put my bike in storage, and take the trains to Prague and Poland, every city here has rental bikes and i have already done more than 700 miles in just over two weeks, and

my legs are getting a little weary, but i can still continue my exploration of new places. Well as they say, we will see what tomorrow brings… 

Monday Sep 30, Budapest Hungary - The Lukacs Thermal Baths

 This being rest day 2, a leisurely breakfast and decided on the Lukacs Bath, not one of the more famous grandiose ones, but its been around a long time, the others.see many many more people n crowds, and the price is half, i figured a hot bath n massage is a pretty good way to start the day so… 

It was only 3 subway stops up from Astoria station, and a 15 minute walk along the Danube promenade from there, pastcruise ships and looking at the massive parliament building across in Pest.I could have got the 17 tram in about the same time, but it was sunny warmish and the air was fresh off the river.

It was a big complex very old, old trees lines the serpentine paved walkway to the entry. The cashier spoke good English, and soon we settled for a swim cap, bath entry, a private dressing cabinet, and a 45 minute refreshing massage for 15,800 florints, $44.50 in dollars. And it was money well spent, I did not want to leave, no wonder the locals there pack a picnic lunch and cards or dominoes and spend the whole day there.

They give you a bracelet which lets you in the turnstile, once upstairs, you hold this up to a reader on the wall, and it tells you your box number, your door is open, a little cubicle maybe 40” square with a wire mesh on top and a hanger, a couple shelves, a chair, and a light. When you are dressed, you leave everything, your phone, valuables inside, close the door, and hold your bracelet up to the lock, it flashes green and you can turn the lock, it flashes red its locked. They also have a safe at the front desk if you want more security. 

Shower with soap before entering the pools, this one had one large leisure pool, with jets coming up from the bottom, and under reclining areas, and in a whirlpool section you sir like a regular h whirlpool. The whirlpool is circular, and around it the water swirls with a current, so you can glide around there what fun! Then there are a couple overhead forceful showers about a foot 24” wide and a few spots where warmer water jets up from the bottom, and they all alternate off and on every five minutes orso, so everyone gets a chance to experience everything there are signs to don’t do more than 10 minutes so others can enjoy too. 

After an hour an a half of that, i went up for my massage. Oh there were two other outdoor pools for messing around and lap swimming, and inside by the sauna and steam room there was an ice bath, and cold tub, and some cooler shallow wading pools. 

The massage was great, after about 20 minutes the masseuse, who didn’t speak much English, noticed something was wrong w my right shoulder, which i have osteoarthritis and torn muscles and ligiment damage, not good here? lol no i said it hurts but do what you can. He said, don’t want make worse, want make better…so he worked on that area a long time. 

After the massage i thought well I’m done might as well leave and get packed, but, i didn’t want to leave, and since they had a snack bar i think they called it Beer Therapy… anyway they had a veggie sandwich and tonic water so i ate, then went into the herbal sauna for a while, then the steam room, then tried the cold tub lol no way, went back into the leisure pool til 400 so i figured 4.5 hours was enough and i have to pack tonight getaway in the morning so that was it. Thought about staying another day and do that again tomorrow, but no, there are other thermal spa towns along the way i have just 12 days now to get to Munich, and Bratislava is next its 270 km so 3 days ride. Well rested i should sleep well tonight and have fresh legs in the morning. 

So an early dinner at a Thai restaurant nearby and its time for bed.

Sunday Sep 29 - Budapest, Hungary

 Wow what a city! Beautiful architecture everywhere you look, multicultural people and food, excellent transit systems, bike and pedestrian friendly. I took rest day one of two to just ride around on the subway and trams and shop for a swim suit and flip flops, I hope to visit a thermal bath tomorrow and get a proper massage also. I went into a Thai massage parlor today but no, I don’t think that’s the type of massage I’m looking for. 

So riding the subway, they are spotless, so are the stations, and toalets, of course you have to pay, but there is a full time attendant who also gives you like 4 sheets of tp and a paper towel, at least at the one I went to. The subway cars have seats on each side facing in, and a lot of open space in the center for standing. They are fast and on time, I never waited more than 3 minutes for a train.

I visited 3 train stations to get a idea of how to get a train along my route to Bratislava, it’s supposed to rain Wednesday and Thursday so i checked out the ticket machines and timetables to see which trains allow bicycles, just in case… I also bought a heavy duty poncho. 

Enjoyed walking around the squares and monuments, public art a lot of places, very little graffiti or vandalism. The Danube riverfront promenade by the parliament building was especially grand, and full of tourists. The river was busy with cruise ships. 

I also went to Westend shopping mall, attached to one of the train stations, a huge 3 level mall with the biggest food court I ever saw… and it was crowded too. 

Decided not to do the castle or house of Houdini tours today, crowds and long lines at the tourist attractions I saw, the Jewish Synagogue largest in Europe, had some beefed up security you could see it from a block away. 

Well I hope to report on a bath and massage tomorrow, I’m kinda thinking maybe an extra day here, rather than in Bratislava … we’ll see what tomorrow brings. 

 

Saturday Sep 28 - Solt to Budapest Hungary, in the rain

 Well after a good sleep Kate the hostess f EuroVelo 6 stop came to tell me breakfast would be ready on the terrace, and wow was it something, I’ll post the photo when it syncs. Paprika eggs, Hungarian sausage, 2 types of cheese, cubes and slices, fried bread, yogurt, nuts and fruit jam, a chocolate croisssant, 4 types of bread and butter, a dish of chopped leeks, cucumbers, and tomatoes, a bowl of sliced pears, 2 apples, caffe and water, it as pretty overwhelming but I did my best, its gonna be a long day in the saddle. 

So got an early start on the road by 900, and the EV6 is all on paved roads there, it was pleasant about 55, but a dark angry sky to the north and west, yup northwest wind. I got about 6km out in the middle of nowhere fields all around, and could see the rain curtain, you know what i mean, sheets of darkness going down to the ground. So I pedaled like crazy into that stiff headwind, hoping or a town and some shelter to get my rain gear out before everything got all wet. 

And I just did make it to a little village, after passing a horse drawn bus, no kidding, I saw a park with 2 little picnic table shelters and i got there just as the rain hit. Of course it hasn’t rained for over a week, so rain gear is at the bottom everything had to come out the panniers, but an hour later, i was as dressed as i could be, my front and rear bags in plastic bags, a plastic bag over my helmet, bike can under that to keep the rain off my glasses, some, and those priceless rain booties. Marian had bought me a nice rain jacket and pants from J&G in Portland some years ago, and they are worth the price. 

It did not stop raining one time, and i had another 85km to go. Well, the EV6 routed off the paved roads to the grass dirt levee, and i tried that for bout a mile, slow going, and getting wetter muddier all the time, so i ditched off onto the highway, saw a Budapest sign and started going that way. 

But it was again narrow and terrible bumpy road edge with puddles hiding bone jarring potholes, and it being Saturday, the road was busy with cars trucks and buses zooming by some too close for my taste but there was no alternative for a few hours. 

Then I decided to stop and rest, eat something, and look at the map again. It was still about 50km to Buedapest but i thought well this road at least i am making good time, another few hours I’ll be close and surely there will be bike lanes from the outskirts in. 

Well the map showed a town Rackeye 6km to the west, and the EV6 paved all the way to Budapest, so i took a chance went out of the way and it saved the day for me, because the route was on a cycle path for a little ways, then went onto a little road, which it was going to take all the way to Budapest, I didn’t like the road too much, but as it went out of town, a Train station !!! First one I’ve seen in a long time. I thought no i can’t be this lucky and checked the timetable, yes, every hour on the 14 after, a train to Budapest, I tried to understand the ticket machine but couldn’t figure it out, and the train pulled out. 

So I had an hour, i went up the road to the grocery store, got some croissants and cheese and chocolate milk, a energy bar, and had a nice meal under the awning of the Tesco, then went back to the station, anyone speak English? Nope, finally i waved my card at some people on the bench and pointed to the ticket machine, and my bike, and a guy came to help me, sprechen zie Deutsch? He asks me, Nicht ich Sprache keine deutsch, the limit of my German vocabulary, but he helped me, actually he bought the tickets for me in Hungarian and i put my card there to pay. Funny thing, when you use a credit card, it asks you for a pin, which I don’t know, but if you use a debit card, no pin needed, 

So what you do, you buy 2 tickets, one for you, one for your bike, all together it was 450 florints each, about $2.75 or so to ride the 25 or 30 miles.And luckily that guy got on and sat by me and showed me how to validate the ticket, cuz sure enough a few stops later a conductor got on and checked em. no modern validator, you put it in there and click the thing to make the notch on them. 

These trains were probably pre ww2. No heat no nothing, a basic car tho they had cloth upholstered seats. 

I figured i rode all the way to the end of the line, and from there I could use google maps to get to my apartment, tho after a few go this was 2 km then back that way 2km i switched to Apple Maps and made it by 500 or so. 

Budapest is awesome, crowded like New York all kinds of people, nice pedestrian zones beautiful architecture all the buildings lit up. 

After i got dried off from a hot shower and clean warm clothes i went to eat, looked online found a Lebanese restaurant just a few blocks away, and it was great. 

Stopped at Lidl and Aldi on the way back got my groceries for 2 breakfasts and dinners, now it’s a good time to go lights out and not sure but I think Harry Houdini house tomorrow, and maybe Buda castle, or a hot thermal bath, or a thai massage… we will see in the morning. 

Friday Sep 27 - Baja to Solt Hungary

 Good sleep woke early oh i didn’t stay at the Wellness hotel why i went brain dead when it came time to book i went a little cheaper for Foter Panzio across the square. No breakfast but they have an espresso machine and tea so Istvan the manager told me in the morning, go 30 meters down the back street and there’s a bakery, get some breakfast and come back here have your coffee or tea and eat. So that’s what i did and Istvan gave me company we chatted through my breakfast. Now at the bakery i was puzzled, cuz I wanted sweet rolls and the other day at the Spar supermarket i got what i thought was almond or walnut rolls and no it turned out to be stuffed with liver pate or some other disgusting thing i spit out… so i was leery, but an older woman in front of me ordered a few things, then i wasn’t quite sure so i let another woman go in front of me, and when it was my turn, she spoke perfect English and pointed to everything in the case told me what they all were, so i got some shortbread sticks, a chocolate roll (like a cinnamon roll but whole grain) and a plum stuffed croissant. Had a couple cups of espresso with Istvan and i was on the road. Istvan, is a cyclist too like everyone around here but he was very interested in my breakdown bike, bar end shifters, etc… 

Anyway, got on the road by 930 took more pictures today,